El Chalten

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El Chalten es un pueblo conocido por ser la puerta de entrada al Monte Fitz Roy y al Cerro Torres, dos de los picos más escarpados e impresionantes de los Andes patagónicos.

Y además, El Chalten es el pueblo más joven de la Argentina. Situado entre el monte Fitz Roy y el cerro Torre, este poblado santacruceño es un paraíso para los aficionados al trekking y al alpinismo.

Al suroeste de la provincia argentina de Santa Cruz, se halla la localidad de El Chaltén que cuenta con una población estable de 300 habitantes.

En los últimos años, El Chaltén se ha convertido en un centro turístico en continuo crecimiento, debido a su ubicación privilegiada entre el monte Fitz Roy y el cerro Torre, los dos picos más altos de la región.

El Chaltén es la localidad más cercana al Campo de los Hielos Patagónicos.

Su nombre se lo debe a los primeros pobladores indígenas -los aonikenk, un subgrupo de los tehuelches- que llamaron El Chaltén al cerro Fitz Roy (en su lengua, Chaltén significa “montaña azul” o “montaña que humea”).

Para los aficionados al alpinismo y al trekking , El Chaltén es un destino ineludible: tanto la cascada Chorrillo del Salto, como el monte Fitz Roy (3.441 m de altura) y el cerro Torre (3.128 m) poseen senderos para realizar caminatas o para ser escalados.

Existen también otras travesías, de menor importancia aunque igualmente bellas, como Lago del Desierto, Lago Viedma y Lago San Martin.

Where is El Chalten

El Chaltén is a town of no more than 1,500 inhabitants, located in the Argentine province of Santa Cruz, which has accommodations for travelers. The offer to venture into trekking is multiple, although the trails are set up based on the two highest peaks in the region: Mount Fitz Roy and Mount Torre.

How to get to El Chaltén

By bus:

From El Calafate: Daily buses take 3 hours to travel the 222 kilometers on a fully paved road.

The price of the buses is 1000 pesos each way (December 2019).

The prices are as follows: The one way ticket to El Chalten is 1600 pesos, the round trip is around 2000 pesos, the round trip to El Chalten + Moreno Glacier 2200 pesos (from 12/18 ).

From Bariloche: Buses travel Route 40 through a desert and mostly paved landscape that takes approximately 24 hours.

On the way, they stop at El Bolsón, Esquel, Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos (12 hours to El Chalten).

By car:

Si viene del norte desde el norte, tenga en cuenta que a partir de abril de 2016, unos 70 km de la carretera entre Gobernador Gregores y Tres Lagos siguen siendo de ripio (grava) y principalmente en mal estado.

Si vienes desde Calafate, tienes asfalto en todo el recorrido.

It passes through some hills, is very windy and offers little or no shelter from the wind. Especially due to the rain and snow, a 4WD car had a difficult time passing some sections of this road, and some cyclists felt very bad.

La gasolinera de la ciudad es chica, con un único surtidor instalado en la carretera principal justo a las afueras de la ciudad (dentro de un contenedor de transporte de color azul brillante con el símbolo YPF).

Está abierta de 9 a 12 y de 15 a 20 horas. Si se han quedado sin combustible, es probable que esperen hasta el día siguiente no antes de las 10 de la mañana para que llegue un camión de repostaje (como la mayoría de las gasolineras de la mitad sur de la Patagonia).

What to do in El Chalten

The information point of the national park (on the other side of the bridge, about 500 meters from the bus station) is very useful with all the information about trekking and activities.

Desert Lake.

It is reached through a gravel road one way (about 37 km one way) that takes you to the very remote Lago del Desierto through a wonderful valley along a river. You can take easy walks and walks there and enjoy the peace and quiet. Edit

Viedma Glacier Navigation

Viedma Lake Navigation and Viedma Glacier Trek

The departure is from the Port of Bahía Túnel (18 km from Chaltén).

The boat sails along the front of the glacier, as it passes it is possible to see large icebergs, the celestial skies and walls that rise 40 meters above the level of the lake. This sector is the ideal place for informative talks on glaciology given by experienced guides. Then the disembarkation is made on the rocky promontory in front of the Viedma Glacier to begin a brief walk through the terrain, which a few years ago was occupied by the glacier. After a few minutes you will reach the edge of the glacier where all visitors wear crampons necessary to climb the glacier. The trek is two and a half hours over the Viedma Glacier. The trekking guides are in charge of the safety of the trek and share their knowledge about the area. During the course of the trek you can find sinkholes, crevices and caves. During the excursion there will be a break for lunch.

Viedma Glacier Navigation

Trekking in El Chalten

This area is a trekking mecca.

Called the capital of trekking, the Santa Cruz town of El Chaltén is the starting point to venture on the trails of Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, the two highest peaks in the region.

Trekking to the Caprí Lagoon

It starts from the path at the end of the town, which begins with a somewhat steep slope, which continues for 1h30 ‘over a gap of about 350m, to access the first viewpoint. From there you will have the first and spectacular view of Cerro Fitz Roy, flanked by the Poicenot, Saint Exupéry, Mermoz and Guillaumet needles.

After 15 more minutes, you will reach the first mountain base camp of Montaña Capri, from where the homonymous lagoon is meters away, with views of mountains and forests and Mount Fitz Roy. Duration: 1.45 h.

Trekking Laguna de los Tres

Laguna de los 3 trekking

This is the most classic hike and one of the most beautiful in the area, as it leads us to the foot of the mythical Mount Fitz Roy. There are two ways to start this route, from El Pilar (20 km from Chaltén), which is what is suggested, or from Chaltén itself, as a second option:

Option start from El Pilar: This trailhead is almost 20 kilometers from El Chaltén, which is why a land transfer is needed to start, which can be regular or private. The advantages of doing it from this point are several: it is less effortful, since there is not as much slope as when starting from El Chaltén; The path is not repeated, since it ends going down to Laguna Capri and then El Chaltén; and it allows to know more landscapes, such as the Piedras Blancas Glacier.

From El Pilar, it is allowed to access the Río Blanco base camp in a faster and less effortful way, in just 2 hours of travel, as it is the shortest route with little unevenness. In addition to enjoying the view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier.

The path begins with few undulations, which goes through a lenga forest to the viewpoint of the Piedras Blancas Glacier, where it is reached after only 1 hour 30 minutes of walking. From there you can enjoy an incredible view in front of the aforementioned glacier and its lagoon, located at the foot of Mount Fitz Roy.

Then there is only 30 minutes of walking to get to the Poicenot camp and another 15 minutes to get to Río Blanco. This is where the aforementioned 1h trail begins. 15 ‘to Laguna de los Tres, the viewpoint of Mount Fitz Roy, with an unparalleled view of the lagoon and its homonymous glacier with the Mount Fitz Roy massif emerging from the ice over 2000 m high.

The return to the town of El Chaltén is done by passing through the Capri Lagoon, and descending the end of this path. Duration approx: 7hs. Total distance: 21km

Option start from El Chaltén: First, the same is done as going to Capri (see above). From this point we will walk along the flattest path of the route, in an area of mallines and chorrillos for 1h. 30 ‘until arriving at Poincenot camp. In another 15 minutes, you will reach the Río Blanco camp, exclusively for climbers, from where the path to the Laguna de los Tres viewpoint begins, with an uninterrupted slope of 1h 15 minutes. You return to the town of El Chaltén along this same path. Duration approx: 8hs 30´-9hs. Total distance: 25km.

Trekking to the Piedras Blancas Glacier

Piedras Blancas Glacier

The path that starts from El Pilar, 20 kms from El Chaltén, so it is necessary to take a one way transfer and another one back. The trek is short, developed for those who want to do a simple walk. The trail borders the Río Blanco, passing through forests, you reach the Mirador del Glaciar Piedras Blancas, with its lagoon. Duration: 4 hours. i / v.

Trekking Piedra del Fraile

The trekking starts from the Río Eléctrico Bridge 18 kms from El Chaltén, a round trip transfer is necessary to this point. Until El Fraile, it is a very simple walk without unevenness, Transfer by minibus vehicle, from El Chaltén to the Río Eléctrico Bridge (18 km), then there are two hours of a gentle walk through lengas forests, wading small streams, until to Piedra del Fraile, place where Agostini’s father made a base for his explorations in the area.

From this place you get a unique view of Fitz Roy, the Northwest wall. The area has the Los Troncos Refuge, where you can have a drink, and it also has camping facilities. As it is a private field, an entrance ticket must be paid here, it is good that passengers know this beforehand. Distance: 6 Km- (2 hrs.) Difficulty: Easy

Trekking to the Pollone Glacier:

For those who have more energy, this trek continues to the Pollone Glacier (5 km. 2 hours). You will walk up the river until you reach Lake Eléctrico, contemplating the North wall of Fitz Roy, and the Mermoz and Guillaumet needles. Then we continue our way until we see the Pollone and Fitz Roy Norte Glaciers.

Laguna Torre Trek (Cerro Torre Viewpoint)

Cerro Torre
  • 1: Torre Rafael Juárez
  • 2: Cerro Torre
  • 3: Torre Egger
  • 4: Punta Herron
  • 5: Aguja Standhart
  • 6: Perfil del Indio
  • 7: Aguja Bífida
  • 8: Torre Pachamama
  • 9: Torre Achachila
  • 10: Torre Inti
  • 11: Cuatro Dedos
  • 12: Domo Blanco

El Chaltén – Camp De Agostini – Laguna Torre: This is another of the most classic treks in the area, which leads to one of the most beautiful and difficult mountains on the planet: Cerro Torre. The path starts from the town and goes up the Fitz Roy River, with a slight incline at the beginning, which then continues on a quiet walk reaching the first viewpoint after 1h 30´.

From there you will have a beautiful view of the Cerro Torre cordon, the Cordón de Las Adelas and part of the Cerro Fitz Roy massif. The path continues with slight undulations approaching the river bed, until reaching De Agostini camp, after about 45 minutes. Continue for another 10 minutes to arrive, after crossing the moraines, to Laguna Torre.

From here, the spectacular view of Cerro Torre, flanked by the Egger, Standhard and Bífida needles and the Cordón de las Adelas, with its impressive glaciers spilling into the lagoon. The return to El Chaltén is done by the same path. Duration approx .: 6 hours Total distance: 22km.

Hill of the Lying fold

This trail begins at the entrance of the town, more precisely at the National Parks Information Center. It is the trek with the best panoramic views, where you can see the two main hills: Fitz Roy and Torre, the one with the thickest forests. At 1.30 you reach the first viewpoint, called Pampa de las Carretas, from where you have the first view of the Torre and Fitz Roy hills. Following the path, the panoramic views continue, the Viedma Lake, the Huemul hill, and the Paso del Viento with the Túnel River valley, the exit door of the Continental Ice, are perfectly visible. Then, in the fold, views of the Fitz Roy river, lagoon, glacier and Torre hill; Laguna Madre e Hija, the Fitz Roy. Duration: 7 hours. Difficulty: intermediate. Total distance: 15 km.

Trekking to the Laguna and Huemul Glacier

This trekking begins at the southern tip of Lago del Desierto (40 km), so you can take a round trip transfer from El Chaltén. It is a 45 minute climb, with panoramic views while ascending the Lago del Desierto and Fitz Roy. It ends at a viewpoint to the Huemul Lagoon and Glacier. Here you must pay an access ticket, since it is a private field. Distance: 2 km. Round trip duration: 1.45 h.

Why is it the capital of trekking

A la hora de hacer trekking (en versión corta), Laguna Capri es uno de los destinos posibles, con tentadores lugares para acampar junto al agua y una magnífica vista de todo el Fitz Roy.

Otra opción es ir al Chorrillo del Salto, una cascada de algo más de 15 metros de altura, ubicada en el último tramo del río de las Vueltas.

Si se desea atravesar un recorrido más extenso, se pueden tomar cualquiera de los dos caminos que se abren en V desde El Chaltén: la base del cerro Fitz Roy y Laguna Torre.

Camino al Fitz Roy, el itinerario comienza en el camping Madsen, desde donde se desciende al valle del Chorrillo del Salto, una planicie de piedra erosionada por el viento.

Se necesitan tres horas más de caminata para llegar hasta el río Blanco y pisar el tan esperado suelo de la base del cerro Fitz Roy (3.441 metros). Si el viajero desea continuar dos horas más, podrá subir hasta Laguna de los Tres -al pie del cerro-, donde hay un peñasco con una vista privilegiada de la Laguna Sucia y del glaciar del que nace, unos 300 metros más abajo.

The different excursions allow you to admire the beauties of the flora and fauna: lagoons, waterfalls, rivers that receive water from glaciers and, of course, hills. The diversity of these landscapes in which lenga and ñire forests converge is invaded by the typical animals of the region: hares, red foxes, pumas and black eagles.

Recognized as the Argentine capital of trekking, the Santa Cruz town of El Chaltén also offers other crossings, such as Lago del Desierto, Lago Viedma and Lago San Martín.

Weather in El Chalten

The weather in El Chaltén is very unstable.

One of the obsessions when you are in El Chaltén is being able to predict the weather in the next few hours or in the next few days.

Will the Fitz Roy be seen or not? … What day should I do the trekking today or tomorrow?

You can even find yourself in the surroundings of Mount Fitz Roy professional climbers waiting for a better climate to attack the slope of Fitz Roy.

The point is that the weather in El Chaltén like all mountain weather is very difficult to predict.

Si has llegado hasta aquí transitado la Carretera Austral tal vez quieras seguir y cruzar a Argentina a través del poco transitado paso fronterizo Roballos y conectar con la ruta 40 a la altura de Bajo Caracoles.

Keep in mind that this crossing is very little traveled and you should check at the border before leaving to make sure it is open.

Another precaution to take is to leave early since you will have to drive a few kilometers to reach the next accommodation in Argentina.

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About the author

I am Matias, born in Patagonia, and a lover of my land.

For more than 20 years I help foreign travellers to organise their trip to Patagonia.

I also manage this exotic accommodation on the Atlantic coast.